JPG: Stories: Photo Essay: Not your typical day at the spa

Not your typical day at the spa

By Jane Keeler

26 Nov 2008

My friends and I woke up early and piled into the ancient, Soviet-era jeep we had hired for the day. Our driver, Victor, had told us that it would take at least two and a half hours to reach our destination, despite the fact that it lay a mere 30km away from the city of Karakol in northeastern Kyrgyzstan. Our goal was the Altyn Arashan valley and hot springs, located high in the mountains at the end of a rocky dirt track that didn't deserve to be called a road. We'd been told that Victor's jeep was one of the few vehicles in the area which was capable of navigating the track to Altyn Arashan; nonetheless, we had to stop at least four times along the way so he could refill the radiator and allow the engine to cool. The track was bumpy, the jeep was uncomfortable and the ride was somewhat nauseating; however, the instant we arrived in the Altyn Arashan Valley, we knew it had been worth it. The scenery of the high mountain valley was spectacular, and reminded us all of The Sound of Music... there's definitely a good reason why Kyrgyzstan calls itself 'The Switzerland of Central Asia'!

The owners of the Altyn Arashan Hot Springs and Hotel (which is more of a rustic hostel than a hotel) gave us a tour of their facilities, which included a stone bearing ancient Tibetan inscriptions that the owner had found in the nearby river and a rock which was allegedly a fertility stone. The he led us to our goal: the hot springs. The hot, thermal waters are pumped into different concrete sheds - not exactly your typical spa relaxation venue - located next to the Altyn Arashan river. Each shed contains water of a different temperature and containing different minerals. The idea is to relax in one shed, run into the river to lower your body temperature, then run to the next shed. The concrete sheds might not make for the most attractive venue, the waters are wonderful. Plus, all you have to do is prop the door to your respective shed open to be rewarded with a stellar view of the valley.

For a modest fee, the owners of the hotel and hot springs can fix you a simple meal, or you can do as we did and pack in a picnic (the valley is an excellent place for picnicking)... but be forewarned, those are your only options. In addition to the hot springs, hotel serves as a base for day hikers and trekkers alike. The hotel facilities are small, but they also offer a place for camping for the more outdoorsy types. Trips to Altyn Arashan can be arranged cheaply and easily through Community Based Tourism (http://www.cbtkyrgyzstan.kg).