JPG: Stories: Photo Essay: Moscow's Metro's "The People's Palaces"

Moscow's Metro's "The People's Palaces"

By Jon Ayres

30 Sep 2008

The first time I rode on the Moscow Metro, it really did not impress me at first. The stations though clean were just subway stations and nothing more, but then I came to a station that caught my attention, to be honest it kind of shocked me. I could not believe the sight I was seeing through the Metro train's open door and windows, chandeliers hanging from the ceiling, frescoes between the marble pylons in intricate frames sitting a top of gold colored friezes. I had just stopped at the Kievskaja station on my way to work. Wow, I never knew such subway stations existed anywhere, let alone in Russia. It was then I learned that there was more to the underground architecture of the Moscow Metro system than I knew about. The Moscow Metro would become one of my favorite places to photograph because you can photograph a little of everything in these underground 'people's palaces' as far as photographing the lives of the Muscovites. It is just like street photography that I love to do on Moscow's streets, except these streets are underground. Photography is discovery, you have to search out and discover the best photo opportunities no matter where ever you find yourself. That is part of the fun of photography and the Moscow Metro can offer to you many photography discoveries that are passed over by most photographers because of the crowds of people. Well, I do see one or two tourist photographers sometimes, but I have rarely see a pro photographer taking photos of these lovely subway stations.

Nice subway stations can be found in many countries and cities such as Paris, London, Los Angeles, Asia and Europe or even in the US. But none really compare in grandeur to the Moscow Metro, no where else in the world can you found such a subway system as impressive as the Moscow Metro. You will find lovely and interesting metro stations throughout Moscow which are unique and special. Russia is a country of contrasts and this is also exemplified in Moscow's Metro system. A few stations will be plain and simple, rather ordinary. Then the next station will look like as if the station was built for the Tsars of Russia. These stations are living memorials to the good and the bad times in Russia's history.

The Moscow Metro is one of the world's oldest subway systems, only Paris, London and New York City's subway systems are older. Moscow holds third place as far as traveler's favorite subways according to a survey by Virgin Vacations Company. I have read that the Moscow Metro is the largest subway system in the world and that can be believed since Moscow is one of the largest cities in the world. But without a doubt, it can be said that Moscow's Metro system is not only the most beautiful, but the most efficient subway system in operation today transporting roughly 8 million people daily during weekdays.

Just why many of Moscow's metro stations are just like fancy palaces? Moscow's subway was finally started during Stalin's rule, these metro stations were supposed to showoff the best of Soviet architecture, industrial might and show how privileged the lifestyle of the Russian people was supposed to be in the Soviet Union. Visiting dignitaries could see how prosperous, happy the Russian people were under Bolshevik rule which is reflected by the statues and art work. I do not think the working class Russian really bought all the Bolshevik propaganda. I think the subways were to impress visiting dignitaries, sportspeople, writers and others invited to visit Russia, more than the Russians themselves. But Russians rightfully can take pride in their subway system. Even though the communist propagandist art-deco isn't exactly my cup of vodka, I can honestly say that I am extremely impressed with these so-called 'people's palaces' which celebrate socialist Russia's glory every time I pass through one of these mini museums. Even today new people's palaces are still being built though more in the art Nuevo/Deco style, just this week a new station opened on the blue line that I go to work on, except today the Soviet philosophy is dead and buried; now it is modern art that is in style. But the marvelous underground people's palaces celebrating the socialist ideas still remain in all their glory as working museums which tells stories from the past.

Which Metro stations are best to visit and photograph? The most elaborate stations are in the center: The Circle line No. 5 generally glorifying the Soviet victory in WW II or friendship of Soviet people. The Arbatsko-Pokrovskaya line Line No. 3 and the Koltsevaya Line, No. 5 are the best in my opinion. Stations built after Stalin is generally a lot less pompous and a lot simpler, but many are nice. If you like modern architecture then the newest stations will be must sees for you. The best way to see the Moscow Metro system is just get in and go, every line intersects with another line at some point and making the 'Metro Run' a good way to spend a day, just get on and explore, you see a station stop that looks interesting, hop off, look around, take a photo or two and get back on the next train that stops. A single ticket allows you to go anywhere you wish, to as many stops and lines as you want as long as you do not go outside of the exit gates, a one-way ticket is all you need to go where you want and return to tour starting point. The secret to getting around on Moscow's Metro is planning ahead what you want to see and how to get there. Two of the best resources on the internet can be found on the Moscow Metro English web page: http://engl.mosmetro.ru/pages/page_0.php?id_page=4 and Wikipedia online encyclopedia has one of the best guides of the metro lines and stations: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Moscow_metro_stations The secret is knowing what you want to see and photograph and how to get there. Always keep a Moscow Metro map with you at all times, make sure you mark the important stations like the station closest to your hotel or any important station you need to return to. The Moscow Metro system is large and you can get turned around, but it is also well marked with station name, lines and maps so if you do get lost, you should be able to find your way back fairly easy.

Moscow's Metro system is easy to navigate; each line has a specific color, number and name. Each station and for that fact, each car has a map of the Metro system along with a stops the line makes in it. Each station is well marked with signs telling where each exit goes and the connecting lines, bus and tram numbers are also listed towards the exits which stop at the exit. If you get hopelessly lost, each metro station has red and blue SOS call boxes so you can get help both in Russian and English, red side is English, Blue side Russian. There are 11 subway lines plus a Short metro line and outdoor monorail line. The oldest line is the Red Line No. 1 named Sokolnicheskaya, the newest is the dark blue Line No. 11 named Kashirskaya. The lines are numbered in the order they were built. If I can navigate this subway anybody can, believe me, its not hard at all.

Here are the metro lines I consider worth seeing along with what I consider the most interesting stations, the best station names I listed are stations I consider must see stations, especially if you're a photographer. Of course what I like and find interesting, you may not like, and that is why research is important so you can find what interests you the most. Information on the Moscow Metro along with photographs are easy to find on the Internet.

Sokolnicheskaya Line, Red Line No. 1- Komsomolskaya-Radialnaya, Kropotkinskaya, Vorobyovy Gory (this is an above ground station that crosses the Moscow River at 'Sparrow Hills'. This station is not so fancy inside, but the view of the Moscow River through the glass walls is something else.)

Zamoskvoretskaya Line, Green Line No.2- Mayakovskaya, Novokuznetskaya

Arbatsko-Pokrovskaya Line, Blue Line, Line No. 3- Partizanskaya, Elektrozavodskaya, Kurskaya-Radialnaya, Ploshchad Revolyutsii, Arbatskaya, Smolenskaya, Slavyanskij Bulvar

Filyovskaya Line, Light Blue Line No. 4- Kiyevskaya, Vystavochnaya,

Koltsevaya Line, Purple Line No. 5- This is the famous Circle Line, Park Kultury, Oktyabrskaya, Dobryninskaya, Paveletskaya, Taganskaya, Prospekt Mira, Novoslobodskaya, Belorusskaya, Krasnopresnenskaya, Kiyevskaya,

Kaluzhsko-Rizhskaya Line, Orange Line No. 6- Akademicheskaya, Konkovo, Yasenevo,

Tagansko-Krasnopresnenskaya Line, Pink Line No. 7- Pushkinskaya,

Kalininskaya Line, Yellow Line No. 8- Aviamotornaya, Marksistskaya,

Serpukhovsko-Timiryazevskaya Line, Grey Line No. 9. Tsvetnoy Bulvar,

Lyublinskaya Line, Green Line No. 10- Trubnaya, Sretensky Bulvar, Rimskaya, Pechatniki, Bratislavskaya,

A special metro train to be on the lookout for is what I call the 'Flower Power train.' It is a metro train with flowers painted all over it. So far I have only seen this train on the Arbatsko-Pokrovskaya Line, Blue Line, Line No. 3. This is the train used for station openings, but does run a regular route. This train only has seats on one side, and paintings on the other side, if you see the 'Flower Power train, hop on because it is just like a moving art gallery, some very nice painting hang on the train car walls.

Sadly most tourists and visitors only see a few of the Moscow Metro's 'People's Palaces' as they pass through one or two on their way to one of the major sites or tours. They have no idea of just what they are missing; as a matter of fact there are tours of the Moscow Metro Lines offered by tourist agencies. The Moscow Metro is truly one of the must see sites of Moscow, especially for the photographer.

This reminds me, I have seen heated discussions before as to whether or not photography is allowed inside the Moscow Metro. Sorry to disappoint some of the know it alls that seem to live on various photography forums, but photography is allowed in the Moscow Metro! Do not believe me, this is from the English language web page of the Public Relations Department of the Moscow Metro: http://engl.mosmetro.ru/pages/page_0.php?id_page=349

Photography

Amateur photography (without professional equipment, tripod and lighting devices) in Moscow metro is not prohibited and therefore no permission is necessary.

Professional photography To obtain permission for professional photography in the territory of Moscow metro, send a letter to the head of Moscow metro Dmitry Gaev by fax (495) 631-3744 (telephone 688-02-91) or by post (41, Prospect Mira, bldg. 2, Moscow, 129110, Russia).

Professional photography costs 6000 rubles per hour. After signing the agreement payment can be made by bank transfer.

As you can see, photography is allowed in the Moscow Metro, but remember, you can not get in the way of people or cause a hazard to yourself or others, you common sense when photographing. Yu see militia officers or soldiers, its best not to photograph them or anything until they pass. The cost for a professional photography permit is steep, around $240 per hour, be forewarned, if you use a tripod around major tourist sites like the Kremlin, Red Square ect..., you will be asked to show your pro permit, so be forewarned. But photography is allowed in the Moscow Metro System. The hours for operation of the Moscow metro is from 5:45 am unto 1:00am. I would try and avoid the rush hours, 7:00 to 9:00 am 11:00am to 1:00 pm and 4:00pm to 7:00 pm. If you're a photographer looking to take photos, then early morning before the to work rush or late at night after 9:00 pm will be your best bets to take photos without getting in the way of commuters or commuters getting into your way, of course you may want to photograph the subway crowds. All the photos I took for this article were taken with police officers around and not a single one said a word to me, so those who say that photography in the Moscow subway just do not know what they are talking about, just look on the Moscow Metro English web page and see for your self.

The Moscow Metro offers the photographer opportunities to photograph some of the most amazing 20th century architecture found anywhere in the world today. The Moscow Metro system is truly the Tsar of the world's subway systems. The Moscow Metro is overlooked by so many photographers; they are so overwhelmed by the Kremlin, St. Basil's Cathedral and other sites above ground, they completely forget that Moscow's underground Metro is just as magnificent. If you are ever visiting Moscow and you enjoy photography, do not forget to visit 'Moscow's People Palaces' you will regret it if you do not visit and photograph them. The Moscow Metro is one of the many unknown sites overlooked by photographers, so if you're coming to Moscow and you are a photographer make sure you check the Moscow Metro, the world's most beautiful subway system.

About the photos I took for this article, they were all taken with my Panasonic FZ50 using ISO of 200, in Program mode. I like using Program mode because of the varying lightening conditions of each station, Program mode allows for taking the shot and getting out of the passengers way. I do not like listing settings because different situations call for different settings.