By Lee Friedman

4 September 2007

Fashion photography is one of the most competitive and elusive occupations in the world. For those determined enough to make it happen, it can be incredibly rewarding. Some tips on getting started:

1. DO YOUR RESEARCH

Before you arrange your first shoot, do your homework. Look at the current issues of the major fashion magazines—both European and American editions. Identify the photographs that appeal to you and ask yourself why. Is it primarily the lighting, the location, the clothing, or the type of model? Don't just look at the photos; read the story. Discover why the clothing is photographed/styled the way it is. Understanding the rationale behind the photographs will help you to create more resonant images.

Tear out examples of lighting, hair, makeup, and locations that you find compelling and keep a file of these images that you can go back and refer to. Trying to imitate or recreate the work of other photographers you respect is a great exercise.

2. BARTER

The fashion industry is competitive, and not just for photographers. Budding hairstylists, makeup artists, models, and stylists will often work for free in exchange for prints or digital images for their portfolios. This cooperation can raise the quality of the final output, but keep the team small to minimize the hassle for everyone involved. Building a team is also good practice in working collaboratively and being able to verbally articulate your vision.

3. BUILD A TEAM

After you've been shooting a while, you'll find that repeatedly working with a trusted stylist, assistant, makeup artist, and hairstylist will greatly increase your productivity. This team will come to understand your aesthetic and working style. That said, it can be good to change your team up occasionally when you have the time and budget to experiment.

4. TAP INTO THE COMMUNITY

Whether it's a bulletin board at a photo lab or an online group, a community posting can help you immensely. You can find out about studio rentals, equipment for sale, and project opportunities and start building the necessary connections. Fashion design schools are also great places to make connections—if a young designer is passionate enough about his own career, he will often make the details of a shoot come together.

There's always the chance that the young designer you work with will become the next Todd Oldham. As in any profession, remember and respect the people you work with on your way up.

5. HIT THE AGENCIES

Modeling agencies are often hubs for finding not just models, but also qualified hair and makeup people. Junior bookers often have less experienced models available for test shoots, as well as detailed profiles on a variety of people within the industry.

6. GO ABROAD

The New York fashion industry can be nearly impossible to break into. Agencies often send new models to learn the ropes in Paris or Milan, where vastly more magazines and runway shows make the industry more accessible. Beyond the benefit of increased opportunities, Paris has no shortage of scenic locations.

7. KEEP IT SIMPLE

There are many reasons to keep your equipment load simple. Less experienced models can be intimidated by bulky equipment or high-powered strobes. Complicated setups can render you helpless in the case of malfunctioning equipment. Plus it's always easier to travel light. A quality digital SLR or film camera, a tripod, and a reflector disk are all the tools you need to begin.

8. LEARN TO USE DAYLIGHT

The standard rules apply: you're going to get the most flattering light at the magic hours of dawn and dusk. Shooting at noon will produce harsh facial shadows and a relatively flat light on the clothing, but shooting earlier or later in the day, using a reflector to create fill light, is a simple way to yield better results.

9. FIND A STUDIO

While outdoor shots are a simpler way to get started, it eventually becomes necessary to have studio shots in your portfolio as well. It's important to show your range, and that you know how to work with artificial lighting. Usually, large studio spaces are needed in order to do full-length shots, but acquiring this space can be expensive. Some studios may offer a discount if your schedule is flexible and you're able to come in if they have a cancellation.

10. IT'S ALL ABOUT THE STORY

A portfolio comprised entirely of singular, disparate images may show your range of technical skills, but that's about it. What will really set you apart is your ability to create a compelling narrative—think about how you can tell a story in six to eight images or less. Don't stick to the fashion world when trying to find inspiration. Literature, cinema, and fine art are all good places to find narratives for your projects.

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