Impressions of Havana
By Joerg Schlagheck
17 Apr 2009
Besides memories of old movies I had seen as a kid, I had absolutely no idea what to expect on my first visit to Havana. At my hotel in Varadero, Cuba's "Tourist Mecca" return trips were offered at reasonable prices. The options ranged from a one day excursion, meals and activities such as museum and cigar factory visits included, to a two day trip with an overnight stay in a luxury hotel and a show at the Tropicana, a very famous entertainment establishment.
While all this sounded very interesting and might have been perfect in such unfamiliar territory, the strictly structured nature of those guided tours bothered me. Was I going to Havana to hang out and party with other tourist? Perhaps there was a different way. Soon I found out about the Viazul bus service, a network of bus routes all over Cuba. A trip from Varadero to Havana was available three times a day. The cost: Ten pesos, cheaper than a taxi ride across town.
The next day I found myself on a very comfortable bus heading towards Havana. All I had with me was a duffel bag with a change of clothes, a towel and my camera. I had no idea how long I was going to stay or where I was going to spend the night. My kind of adventure!
Upon arrival in Havana the bus sopped at a huge bus stop right by the waterfront and close to the old part of town with most of the tourist attractions. This is where I got off. At this point I had no idea that the actual bus terminal was in a completely different area. The first impressions of the city were quite overwhelming. There were so many old buildings, some in excellent condition, some in the process of renovation and others in very poor shape. My curiosity drew me towards the narrow streets in the oldest part of town. The sidewalks were too narrow to walk on, so everybody was just using them to jump out of the way of the passing cars, many of them huge 1950's era American models. All these streets were busy with lots of people walking and others just hanging out at their door steps, chatting with their neighbors. This was an ancient residential area. Most buildings looked run down, but unlike in many other older cities of this kind, I felt totally safe. Not a sign of any illegal activity, such as drugs. My big straw hat identified me as a tourist at first sight and seemed to amuse some people. It proved to be an easy conversation starter and instantly made me some friends. My poor Spanish capabilities were not a problem as many of the locals have some basic knowledge of English. The afternoon turned out to be a real learning experience about how these people live. There are two currencies in Cuba. The "convertible Peso" or "CUC" exists only for tourists. Cuban residents get paid in "Cuban National Pesos", a weak currency that is not accepted everywhere, but sufficient to buy basic needs at stores and markets intended to serve the local population. From what I heard, the supply is limited. The "tourist money" is actually the only means to buy some luxury items. and everybody truly appreciates some spare change. Some will pose for photographs in exchange for a Peso while others offer to show off the tourist attractions. Beware, there is just not enough change in the world to go around and make everybody happy! It helps to have some dimes and quarters ready.
Back around the tourist attractions, like the Capitolio, Cuba's version of The White House, locals are much less approachable. The police presence is really strong and many Cubans appear to be worried about getting in trouble for molesting tourists. There are also numerous security cameras.
After having found accommodation for the night, I spent the rest of the day just walking around taking pictures, many of which are posted here. Of course, the real fun only started after it was too dark for photography. "Cuba Libre" is not a political slogan here, but a popular drink with lots of rum and some cola, topped off with a piece of lemon. It can be had almost anywhere for 1.50 Pesos, unless of course you happen to be at the famous Social Club, a classic hangout of historic jazz musicians, where it costs 5 Pesos. Of course I only found that out after having invited a local beauty, yikes! Still, by Canadian standards it was all a bargain.
After a good breakfast the next morning, it was time to locate the bus terminal for the trip back to Varadero. It turned out to be a very long walk, but well worth the experience. I got to see some places that tourists don't commonly go to.
Havana is a beautiful city with some serious challenges, but the residents are great problem solvers. How else could you explain the huge number of cars that are over half a century old? As nice as they look, their exhaust is absolutely more toxic than that of modern cars. Life is not perfect here, but that's probably true for most places anywhere. I liked Havana enough to return for a second visit just a month later. It won't be my last. Perhaps some day, this place will be less isolated from the rest of the world. Whatever the political system may be, it seems secondary to the friendships that can develop between individuals.
10 responses
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Regenia Brabham gave props (17 Apr 2009):
This is a fantastic story and my kind of vacation!! Away from the tourist hotspots!! Awesome images!!
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Alexis Gerard gave props (17 Apr 2009):
A great essay, pictures and text. I hope to see it in print!
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Andrea Petersen gave props (17 Apr 2009):
Great story well written...with equally interesting picture collection...Voted for it.
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dp * gave props (18 Apr 2009):
Very nice story and pix's voted. dp
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JOE FAILK gave props (18 Apr 2009):
Great Story Very informative! Vote
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Martie Last gave props (18 Apr 2009):
Interesting travelogue. Your photos from these two trips are terrific.
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dominic serrao gave props (20 Apr 2009):
wonderful photo essay! my vote!!
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Lanis Rossi gave props (20 Apr 2009):
Great story and well photographed; you got my vote
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Jim Hart gave props (24 Apr 2009):
spectacular photo essay!
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Karen Foto Fiddler gave props (20 May 2009):
wonderful story! I say yes print it!
