JPG Magazine: Stories: Ten Tips: Ten Tips for Great Work with Novice Models

Ten Tips for Great Work with Novice Models

By St. Marc

12 July 2007

I have a day job which uses up most of my time and prevents me from booking many "regular" assignments. Most of my work is just for me and doesn't justify spending a lot of money on modeling fees, so I work with a lot of models who aren't very experienced, often on a trade basis. Professional agency models are all business (although most of them I've met have still been really cool!) and hit the ground running. But beginning models, who are often just "trying it out," need a bit more help. If you're a novice too, these tips can help give you something to focus on (no pun intended) and improve your work as well.

1) Talk, talk, talk. New models are often nervous, and even the ones who aren't are, well, new. Silence is awkward. It gives them time to wonder if they're doing something wrong! If nothing else, you can describe what you're doing - most new models don't know much about the actual photography but find it interesting to learn about. I frequently have models comment that they didn't realize we'd been shooting for three hours because the work and the conversation together kept their interest.

2) Also, compliment, compliment, compliment. But do it right. Don't compliment specific body parts, and go very, very easy on praising the model for being "sexy" or "hot." Praise what they're doing, not what they are. The model doesn't need to hear that they're attractive, they know that and people who say it are usually hitting on them. They need to know they're doing a good job of modeling. Don't fake it: make the compliments valid ones. But when the model does something right, let them know. "Good pose!" "Great expression!" "Beautiful lines!" When I can make a model proud of herself, I'll get better images, no matter how gorgeous she is to begin with.

3) Direct, and be specific. Don't be bossy, and use your please and thank-yous, but new models don't know what poses favor them, or that they should turn into the light (usually) or that they shouldn't point everything directly at the camera. It may feel weird, but move them with your words. "Head up... up... up... stop. Eyes on me." Use analogies and stories to bring out expression, but keep it clean and light. I sometimes say things to models like, "Your boyfriend is standing behind me telling me an embarrassing story about you. Give him the 'Shut up NOW!' face!" The expression isn't always what I expect, but it's ALWAYS interesting.

4) Don't touch the model. Don't touch anything touching the model. Even if you're the same sex (and in this day and age even that doesn't mean much) models often have strange ideas about this our folly, and you don't want to make them nervous or tense, or, Heaven forbid, give them ammunition to claim you touched them inappropriately. Like I said before, move them with your words. It gets easier with a little practice: people are smart, and if you tell them what you want, you can get that precise pose out of them.

5) That being said, sometimes you HAVE to get in close. Maybe the pose is perfect, but a wisp of hair is in her face, or the drape just won't drape. Here's how you do it. Say, while still some distance away, "(X) needs adjusting. I don't want you to move because you're where I want you. May I fix it?" If she says, "yes," then go in, fix it fast and with minimal contact, and step back. If she says "no," then ask her to fix it herself and do what you can. Usually being polite and professional is all you need. I like to use a little humor and usually add, 'If I touch anything but (X,) feel free to kick me." Phrase it as seems best to you and be absolutely clear about what you're doing and why. And when in doubt, see Rule 4.

6) Don't be afraid to get in there and participate. If the model doesn't understand what you want, show them the pose yourself. (Depending on what you look like, this is often also a very good tension-breaker.) Lie on the floor and shoot way up. Stand on a (good, sturdy) chair and shoot down. Ask the model what she thinks of a pose or how she'd make it better. If you just sit behind a tripod like some aloof artiste, you'll make a new model feel like some sort of lab animal. Beyond talking, engage and participate.

7) Have clear expectations of what will be shot before the shoot ever starts, and assume NOTHING. Even if you know "figure studies" means "artistic nude," they may not. And there are models who do nude art work all the time who would slap you if you suggested they make the sexy face while posing. Send them links to sample images of the sort you want to make, and describe projected wardrobe, makeup, or the lack thereof, with detail. I have a page on my website (What? You don't have one? At least get a MySpace or something, they're free and they even have good photo organizing pages now.) that shows all my current projects and I just include a link to it when a model contacts me and asks if I'm booking, or if I contact a model to see if she'd like to work with me.

8) That being said, if, after you've been working for a while, you feel a good rapport with the model, and think you might be able to step up the session, there is no harm in asking. Politely. Once. "This shot would have a lot more impact if we lowered the drape and exposed the curve of your breast. Are you comfortable with that?" If she says anything but, "Sure!" then the discussion is over. Don't try to talk her into anything, and for goodness' sake don't pester. And if you even THINK about hitting on the model, I wash my hands of you. Hook up on your own time and don't mess things up for the rest of us. This really does work if you're polite: The woman in the main image was the friend of a model who was working with my studio partner. I was bored and asked the friend if she'd like her portrait made while she waited. She ended up doing some unbelievable art nudes with me, and she'd never modeled before in her life.

9) Have FUN! This is art, this is creation! If you don't have to stop shooting at least once to allow one or both of you to stop laughing and get your game face back on, you're probably doing something wrong. Don't be crude, of course, especially if you're doing figure or glamour work and the model might be uncomfortable with more risque comments. But it's okay to be goofy. And keep that camera ready! There's no smile better than a spontaneous smile.

10) Most important, do right by the model. During the session, what she says goes. If she changes her mind about a level of exposure - which I've had models do - then either do what you can or politely tell her that you're sorry she feels that way and you'll do what you can with the pics you've got. Make sure she gets a break (with water and food, if the shoot is a long one!) After the session, follow up. If you agreed to pay, pay. If you agreed to give prints and files, be good as your word. News travels fast on the Internet: you might get away with stiffing a model once (and let's hope she doesn't have a protective boyfriend!) but it won't work for long. Reputations take a long time to build and a few minutes to destroy.

Have fun!

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